Thursday, March 13, 2014

Free Pattern: Celtic Knot Shamrock Pendant






  Who knows if this pendant will bring you Irish luck, but it's sure to get you noticed! This beautiful piece begins with a simple shamrock, then is surrounded by a Celtic knot inspired border. You could use it to make a key chain, other jewelry pieces, or join multiple squares for a dishcloth or table setting.



  Just looking for a lucky four-leaf clover? Shamrock without knot measures 1 1/2" (3.8 cm) across.




  Finished size of entire motif is 2" by 2" (5 cm by 5 cm), once washed and blocked.









Skill level:
Intermediate/advanced




Materials:
Steel crochet hook size 7 US (4 UK) or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 10 crochet thread, small amounts of green and white
- See note
Needle or smaller hook to weave in ends
Jewelry findings, optional




Gauge:
1st round = 3/4" (1.9 cm) across




Notes:
  I used Aunt Lydia's from Coats in Forest Green, and Creative World DMC Traditions in white. Although I had no problem mixing these in the same project, feel free to use one brand for both colors. I was forced to purchase two different brands due to availability.

  I would have loved to make the knot in metallic thread, but couldn't, again due to availability. If you have some or can purchase it, I would recommend making the knot in silver or gold thread.




Stitches and abbreviations:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)
Double crochet two (three) together (dc2tog) (dc3tog) - *Yarn over, insert hook in designated stitch (st), pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops.* Repeat one (two) more time(s). Yarn over, pull through all three (four) loops on hook. 




Directions for Shamrock:

Round 1:
*Ch 3, dc2tog in farthest ch from hook. Ch 3, sl st in same st. Ch 1, sl st in same st.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times.


Round 2:
*Ch 1, (1 sc, ch 2, dc2tog) in next ch-3 sp. Ch 2, sl st in top of dc2tog, ch 2. (Dc2tog, ch 2, 1 sc) in next ch-3 sp. Ch 1, sl st in ch-1 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Make sure to place last sl st in ch-1 sp of previous row, not beg ch-1.


Round 3:
*Sl st in next ch-1 sp, sl st in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc3tog, ch 2, sl st) in next ch-2 sp. (Sl st, ch 2, dc3tog) in following ch-2 sp. Ch 3, sl st in each of next ch-2 and ch-1 sps.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Bind off, weave in ends.




Directions for Knot:

*Note - You may notice in the finished photo a ring that is woven in the opposite direction. I chose to do this for the top corner of my pendant, because I liked the way it looked. To make them all symmetrical, follow directions. You could make yours like mine, or alternate each corner. The border works either way you make it.


Step 1:
Ch 11. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of remaining 9 sts. Remove hook, secure working end with a safety pin or stitch marker. Pull opposite end through ch-3 sp to the left of "petal", from back to front. Pull through ch-3 sp to the right of next "petal", from front to back.




Pick up working end.




Join with a sl st to top of beg st.




Bind off.




Repeat for 3 remaining "petals". Weave in ends, or work them in under following rounds.




Round 1:
Join with a sl st inside any 10sc ring. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), (4 sc, ch 1, 1 dc) in same sp.  1 dc around entire ring (work loosely so ring lays flat inside st, and only pull st to sc level). Ch 2, 1 dc around entire ring again. (5 sc, ch 2, 5 sc) inside ring, ch 4. * (5 sc, ch 2, 5 sc) inside next ring. (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) around entire ring. (5 sc, ch 2, 5 sc) inside ring again. Ch 4.* Repeat from * to * for 2 remaining rings. Join with a sl st to beg ch-1.

Round 2:
Turn, sl st in ch-4 sp. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), 5 sc in same sp. Ch 2, sk 5 sc, sl st in ch-1 sp. Ch 2, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in corner ch-2 sp. Ch 2, sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 2. *6 sc in ch-4 sp. Ch 2, sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 2, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch-2 sp. Ch 2, sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 2.* Repeat from * to * for 2 remaining sides. Join with a sl st to beg ch-1. Bind off, weave in ends.



Wash and block. Treat with fabric stiffener, add jump rings or other findings to use for jewelry.

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Free Pattern: Bumble Bee Applique

With the first signs of Spring I see a hungry, happy bumble bee!

Because this bug is made from string, you'll never have to fear its sting.

He pairs well with the my daisy applique, and you can make him in under a day!




  Well, technically, he's made from crochet thread, but you can call it string if you like. Finished size is 3 1/2" (7.6 cm) long, and 3" (8.9 cm) wide from wingtip to wingtip. I chose to leave mine plain, but you could embroider or attach eyes and a mouth. Use this applique alone, or combine with any of the rest of the series:

Lacy Daisies

Cotton Candy Butterfly

One round hearts

Skill level:
Easy/intermediate

Materials:
Size 10 crochet thread
  Color A - Black
  Color B - Yellow
  Color C - White
Steel crochet hook size 7 US (4 UK)
Needle or smaller hook to weave in ends

Gauge:
2 rows of 4 dc = 1/2" (1.27 cm)

Notes:
  • To change colors, always pull new color through last two loops of last stitch in row.
  • Colors are changed every other row. Carry colors if you like, a border will be added.
Stitches:
Slip stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)
Triple crochet (tr)

Single crochet two (three) together (sc2tog) (sc3tog) - *Insert hook in designated space (sp), pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop.* Repeat from * to * one (two) more time(s). Yarn over, pull through all three (four) loops on hook.

Double crochet two, (three), (six) together (dc2tog), (dc3tog), (dc6tog) - *Yarn over, insert hook in designated stitch (st), pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops.* Repeat from * to * one (two) (six) more time(s). Yarn over, pull through all three (four) (seven) loops on hook.

Directions:
Begin with color A.

Row 1:
With color A: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in farthest ch from hook. (2 dc)

Row 2:
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in next, change to color B. (4 dc)

Row 3:
With color B: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn, 2 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. 3 dc in last st. (8 dc)

Row 4:
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn, 1 dc in same st. 1 dc in each of next 6 sts. 2 dc in last st, change to color A. (10 dc)

Row 5:
With color A: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn, 1 dc in same st. 1 dc in each of next 8 sts. 2 dc in last st. (12 dc)

Row 6:
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. 1 dc in each st, change to color B. (12 dc)

Row 7:
With color B: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. 1 dc in each st. (12 dc)

Row 8:
Repeat row 7, change colors.

Row 9:
With color A, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. Dc2tog. 1 dc in each of next 6 sts. Dc2tog, 1 dc in last st. (10 dc)

Row 10:
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. Dc2tog next 2 sts. 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog next 2 sts. 1 dc in last st, change to color B. (8 dc)

Row 11:
With color B, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. (Dc3tog next 3 sts) twice. 1 dc in last st. (4 dc)

Row 12:
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn. 2 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. 3 dc in last st. (8 dc)

Row 13:
Ch 3, turn. Dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in last st. Bind off, weave in ends.

Border:
With color A, begin with a sl st in beg ch-3 sp. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), 2 sc in same sp. 3 sc in each post sp of next 5 rows. Pick up color C. With both colors, (1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 tr) in next post sp. Ch 1, (1 dc, ch 4, 1 tr, ch 4, 1 dc) in following sp. Ch 1, drop and cut color C. 5 sc in next sp, 3 sc in following sp. Sc3tog in each of next 2 sps. 5 sc in ch-3 sp, ch 5. Sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in each of remaining 2 chs. Ch 1, 3 sc in top of dc6tog. Ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook and in remaining 2 chs. Ch 1, 5 sc in ch-3 sp. Sc3tog in each of next 2 post sps. 3 sc in next, 5 sc in following. Pick up color C. With both colors, (ch 1, (1 dc, ch 4, 1 tr, ch 4, 1 dc) in next post sp, ch 1, (1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 sc) in following. Drop and cut color C. 3 sc in each of next 6 post sps. ch 1, join with a sl st in beg ch-1. Bind off, weave in ends.

Friday, February 28, 2014

Free Pattern: Lid for Coaster Basket

  When I finished designing my Plarn Coasters, I was satisfied, but the set needed more...The Plarn Coaster Basket was created as a result. I don't know if the set was still lacking something, or if I'm just fascinated with "fmelting" plarn, but I felt the need to make a lid for the basket.
  After finishing the lid, I realized that it's pretty cool just by itself. Even if you don't make the basket and coasters, this would be cute turned upside down and used as a dish for potpourri, keys, or anything else you could think of.
  Finished size is 6" x 6" x 1-1/4" (15.25 cm x 15.25 cm x 3.2 cm), including rolled edge. Interior measurement is slightly larger than 5" x 5" (12.7 cm x 12.7 cm).
See How to make Plarn

Skill level:
Easy

Materials:
Plarn, cut into 3" wide strips
Crochet hook size H/8 5.00MM or size needed to obtain gauge
Smaller hook to weave in ends

Gauge:
First round = 2" (5 cm) circumference

*Note:
Read ahead about my minor frustrations during the "fmelting" process so you have an idea about what's ahead for you. It's not complicated, I just came across some unexpected results. This caused my project to take longer than anticipated. Be prepared to make the process much easier for yourself.



Stitches:
Chain (ch)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)

Directions:

Round 1:
Ch 4, 11 dc in farthest ch from hook. Join with a sl st to beg ch-4. (12 dc)

Round 2:
Turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st. 2 dc in next st. (1 dc, ch 1) in following st. *(2 dc in next st) twice. (1 dc, ch 1) in following st.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Join with a sl st to beg ch-3. (24)

Round 3:
Turn. Sl st into ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp. (sk 1, 2 dc) twice. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp. (Sk 1, 2 dc) twice.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Join with a sl st to beg ch-3. (36)

Round 4:
Sl st into next st and following ch, turn, sl st into ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp. Sk 2, 2 dc in sp between posts. Sk 2, 3 dc in sp between posts, sk 2, 2 dc in sp between posts. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp. Sk 2, 2 dc in sp between posts.  Sk 2, 3 dc in sp between posts. Sk 2, 2 dc in sp between posts.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Join with a sl st to beg ch-3. (48)

Round 5:
Sl st in next st and following ch, turn, sl st into ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp. Working only into sp between posts: Sk 2, 2 dc, sk 2, 3 dc, sk 3, 3 dc, sk 2, 2 dc. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp. Working into sp between posts: Sk 2, 2 dc, sk 2, 3 dc, sk 3, 3 dc, sk 2, 2 dc.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Join with a sl st to beg ch-3. (60)

Round 6:
Sl st into next st and following ch, turn. Sl st into ch-1 sp, ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc) in same sp. (Sk 2, 2 sc) 6 times. *(2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in ch-1 sp. (Sk 2, 2 sc 6 times.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Join with a sl st in beg ch-1. (68)

Round 7:
Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), turn. 1 sc in each of next 67 sts.  Join with a sl st to beg ch-1. (68)

Round 8:
Repeat Round 7.

Round 9:
Turn. Sl st directly below into st of Round 6. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc). Working into sts of Round 6: 1 sc in each of next 67 sts. 

Round 10
*Sl st into back loop only of next st, ch 1.* Repeat from * to *  more times. Join with a sl st to beg sl st. Bind off, weave in ends.




To "fmelt":
  You will need an iron, wax paper, and cardboard or a similar heatproof material to make a form. This time I cheated on the first side, by only using a square of cardboard inside, then turning the iron sideways to press the sides inward. It worked, but I slipped and burned myself, so be careful if you try it. If you already have a form for making the basket, use that.
  I only took photos of the progress as I went this time. If you would like the full tutorial about "fmelting", please see the "Fmelted" Plarn Coasters pattern. For more help on making a form and working with a three dimensional project, check out the "Fmelted" Plarn Basket pattern.

  I won't lie to you; I thought this would go as easy as the basket... It didn't. Pro: The shorter sides allow you to turn it inside out. Con: The shorter sides don't hold their shape as well. You have to hold the shape for them until the piece is completely cool, or it won't be a cube, or fit the basket.
  I always come up with a better idea after I'm finished. If I had to do it again, I would try aluminum foil, probably a double or triple layer, molded around the outside. I didn't try it yet, so I can't guarantee it will work.
  Remember to cover the project with wax paper before ironing and please use caution.
  I recommend working on the sides of this piece first so the top remains pliable. Leave on the form until cool. Here is an example with the lid turned inside out, before melting the opposite side.



  Note the smooth sides. If you will be making this as a stand-alone piece, you might consider keeping it this way.



This could work on the basket, but the rolled edge makes a very tight fit. I would only suggest this for a "My gauge was off because I didn't make a swatch and now my lid is too big" moment; not that any of us ever make that mistake.



  When I made the basket, I couldn't turn it inside out after "fmelting" one side. This lid is shallow enough to invert, so both sides can be melted. I highly recommend doing so because the piece holds its shape better. However, be careful not to go too far and make the edges brittle before turning. It should look something like this:



  I found the best thing to do is only melt the entire piece about halfway, shape it some, then continue.



  Once you begin melting, the sides want to fall away from the body until it cools.  I had to go back to the drawing board. This is how it fit after the first time I thought I was finished:



  I know it isn't very clear, but I hope you can get an idea from it. You can barely see the basket because there is a gap of about an inch between the sides of the basket and the lid. Again, if you're making this as a stand-alone piece, maybe you like it that way, and gauge doesn't matter as much. But I know my gauge matches the basket; I know the lid fits. I just had to figure out a way to keep it from falling before it cooled.
  I left mine on the form, left the wax paper on it, then put a rubber band around it to hold the shape. And it finally came out square!


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